First officer's log

Part 3: We do like to be...

Day 1
All aboard Aquatica by 08:30, and we are off on the 40-minute run to Bunaken National Park for the first time. This boat was to be our base for the week, and is a well built and well equipped ship for the task. Some 16m long and powered by twin Cat engines of about 315hp each, Aquatica and her twin Nautica are spacious and roomy, but can certainly pick up their skirts and run when needed. Separate fresh water rinse tanks for gear and cameras are provided and there are even biscuits for the coffee (as long as Danny 'The Biscuit' hasn't been there first). A 240V power socket is available for on-board charging of batteries if needed.

And so it begins...

It's a very pleasant boat ride to the national park and the calm seas left those who had tied it on a bit the night before plenty of recovery time. Those who did not favour eating breakfast ashore were in luck, because there wasn't any!

Lekuan III
The first port of call was to be one of the three Lekuan sites, named somewhat boringly I, II and III. These are three dive sites along one reef towards the eastern end of the south coast of Bunaken Island. We were told that current conditions varied from site to site, but whatever the weather, Lekuan is certainly a top dive location.

Monika then whipped out a diagram, and off she went with the brief. Your narrator will confess to having a little spatial difficulty with the diagram, and in fact spent most of it working out whether he was looking at a plan or an elevation. The conclusion was that it was both. Anyhow, the brief said napoleon wrasse, sharks, turtles, bumphead parrotfish and loads of anthias and batfish, and we think that pretty well covered it. The coral is rich and seems to go on for ever, well beyond the endurance of your narrator on his first dive in a while (and with a greater air consumption that a 747 in a power dive). Visibility was at least 25m and on our day the current was very benign, although it was going the opposite way to the brief. Left or right shoulder against the reef? Pays your money, takes your choice.

Mandolin
There was a reason given as to why it's named after a musical instrument, but despite all credit to Monika's command of English, your narrator never understood a word of it, and he suspects neither did she. It seemed to be based on the concept of an underwater symphony, but quite what that has to do with a rather twangy instrument favoured by hot-blooded latin types escapes me. Whatever the explanation, it's a spectacular site! There were turtles, sharks, eagle rays, fusiliers, napoleon wrasses, anemones, morays, huge coral formations, you name it! Visibility according to your writer's log was 30m plus. This remained my favourite dive site until Bangka, but more of that later.

House Reef - Tasik Ria
Hmm, house reef eh? Many divers shudder at the thought... old tyres, cans and plastic bag fish are usually the order of the day, and little else. This one is rather better than that and there are enough critters sitting around to make it a worthwhile spot for a photo dive. In fact many of the critters were sitting so suspiciously still that your narrator imagined some perfidy along the lines of John Cleese's parrot, and was searching for signs of their having been nailed to the coral. But no, they must just get paid well as extras and they wheel themselves out every time they hear the boat engine. Their reward was to see Paul's Burberry swim shorts going past. Ever heard a fish chuckle or wonder why those ribbon eels have their mouths open? There's your answer. The dive is made tough by the fact that the bar is in sight, and those suffering from imaginary ear problems and similar ailments will find an excuse to get off when the bottles are changed and sit this one out, especially after the first time.

Highlight of the dive was watching Jase being pursued by a lionfish which was clearly upset at all these strangely clad earth creatures landing on his house. It was given the appropriate dive signal (what exactly does middle finger extended upwards mean, Jase?) but clearly had not read the manual and on it came.  A swift flick of an Xpert Zoom fin sent it packing 'base over apex' looking most miffed. It is possible to laugh into a reg, you know.

Day 2

Bunaken Timur
Rather disappointingly this actually means East Bunaken. Looking at the Eco Divers map, it's clearly a very long reef impossible to see in only one dive! A morning dive it has to be, because the afternoon sun throws the reef into the shadows. Current can be strong, said the brief, and it was there, but not so very fast. Just drift along and watch the Discovery Channel unroll before your eyes. Spectacular coral growth and a lot of small stuff, it's all there on the reef, while behind you the bigger stuff lurks about. Reports of eagle rays and sharks abound. Visibility is said to be indifferent at the turn of the tide, but for our visit it was outstanding - gin clear and easily 40m. Eco Divers tell us Orca have been seen there, but perhaps just as well for our constitutions, not on our watch.

Bunaken Kampung
This site is located just off  the village of Bunaken, hence the name. The brief (and by this stage the diagram was becoming clearer) said we would enter the water at a steep drop-off with a sandy sloping path on the tip of the reef. Look out for eagle and sting rays we were told, but your writer saw none, and if anyone else did they were not telling. There were however thousands of butterflyfish, a few turtles and all the usual suspects - including the first sighting by this diver of a clown triggerfish outside of an aquarium.

Manta rays are said to have been seen here, but not this day. Because of the location there is current, but it's manageable if you go with the flow. There were some signs of coral damage near the shallow parts, but once again, an excellent dive. Visibility was again 25m plus

House Reef
Again...a few dissenters this time entices by the glow of the sunset bar, but the diehards and Scotsmen among us (I want my money's worth!) went for it. Same critters, same spots... I'm ready for my close-up now Mr De Mille.

House reef by night
Well, some folk just can't get enough of a good thing, and while those who headed for the bar earlier were joined by a second wave, it was time to get wet for the last time that day. More critters, cuttlefish, sea snakes and all manner of creepy crawlies abound. Your narrator's dive gear continued to go west, yesterday a dive knife, today a weight pocket. At this rate I'll be naked by the end of the week (gasps of horror from all around, and offers of donated gear).

Day 3

Tanjung Pisok
An ornithological dive, now there's a first. Pisok means swallow apparently, and they can be seen flying over the sea grabbing the insects that were stupid enough to want a bite of neoprene-clad diver. It's a reef that goes around a corner, so interesting currents are the order of the day, and for light entertainment ribbon eels, lionfishe, fusiliers and lots of colourful reef fishes. The top of the coral is not so neat and shiny here, as it gets a bit of a pasting from the monsoon, but deeper down it's business as usual. Visibility was excellent.

Sachiko's Point
This site was apparently named after a Japanese tour operator who loved this spot, and it's not hard to see why. Let's hope she never had the usual coach party of divers paddling in her wake with flash guns going like party poppers. It is a spectacular wall and we saw sharks, tuna, jacks, turtles and at last an eagle ray. The soft coral here was particularly good and the large fans make excellent photo opportunities. Visibility is said to vary from 20 to 35m depending on the tides, for us it was 25 to 30m.

Siladen Point
This dive was a steep wall south of Siladen Island. It's hard to say enough about the colours and sights to be seen here. Go try for yourself, or just open a reef fishes of South East Asia book and pic a page... it's here.

Next page: ...beneath the sea

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